2014 was a pretty grim year for The Warren Lodge Hotel. First the floods, which restricted access to the hotel, then a fire in April gutted the kitchen. The kitchen reopened just before Christmas, so we went along to see the changes and sample the menu.
Broad smiles from Events Director, Alison Gordon and Hotel Manager Ryan Docherty welcomed us to the restaurant. There was clear relief to be back to business as usual and we were proudly shown into the gleaming kitchen to see the changes. The fire had started behind one of the fridges and rapidly spread.
This is a story of turning a negative into a positive however. They decided that the disaster was a chance to make some changes to take the restaurant forward. It is in fact the 50th anniversary of The Warren Lodge Hotel this year so what better time for a makeover. A pizza oven has been installed as well as a griddle to allow for a wider menu.
A new chef was recruited and joined just as the kitchen was about to open. The menu reflects a new touch. It is varied and enticing and I could happily have eaten any number of the dishes on offer.
I opted for a starter combining three things I very much enjoy: Goat’s cheese, chilli and black pudding. I had never had them together and I found the dish intriguing. I was not disappointed. In fact, it was delicious!
It was well presented: Fresh colours and fresh produce. The black pudding was chilli black pudding and married well with the creamy saltiness of the goat’s cheese. The salad offered little explosions of freshness and crunch and the dressing was perfectly balanced.
My dining companion chose the crab and spring onion cake with salad and green chilli crème fraiche. Again it was well presented and offered fresh flavours.
The new menu offers a great choice of main courses including pizza, burgers and grills. Also a good selection of traditional dishes including sausages, fish and chips and beef bolognaise. Also on the menu a tasty sounding teriyaki salmon noodle dish. I could not resist a favourite however: Slow cooked pork belly.
It was served with bacon and leek mash, thyme roasted carrots and apple gravy. The fat on the pork had been blasted under the grill and took on a sticky glazed crust which melted in the mouth. It was served with perfectly cooked vegetables on the side and was a generous portion all round.
My dining companion decided to try the pizza and chose the farmhouse pizza topped with baked ham, portobello mushrooms, olives, cherry tomatoes, mozzarella and basil oil.
This was clearly freshly made and presented a nice balance of ingredients. Other pizzas on the menu include a more traditional Margherita and also less traditional but tasty options.
A neighbouring table was meanwhile served the spaghetti bolognese and I was interested to see it was a half portion, available on request to those with smaller appetites. Children’s portions are likewise half the size and half the price. It means the kitchen can concentrate on doing their range of dishes well. There is plenty on the menu that would appeal to children and they can also offer specific ‘kiddy food’ if required.
Both the dishes we chose were declared a success. We did wonder though if we should have asked for a smaller portion, as we sat back enjoying the flickering candle light on the panelling of the Coach House, contemplating dessert!
Although instinct told my dining companion that she should not have anything at all, she confessed to being rather partial to cheesecake and that she could manage “one or two mouthfuls”. So we duly shared a pud and she had no problem eating half of it.
Coffee finished the meal off with one tiny and very light homemade shortbread biscuit which we also very much enjoyed.
So congratulations are due to the team for having the determination to rise from the ashes. Also to the chef who is doing the hotel proud.
If you fancy trying The Warren Lodge Hotel they are currently offering a ‘Dine for Two’ deal of starter and main with a glass of wine for only £35.
The Warren Lodge Hotel
Church Square
Shepperton-on-Thames
Middlesex
TW17 9JZ